Foodie review: Pop Shop doesn’t live up to billing

by W. Rhodes on June 12th, 2009 Comment

Reviewed by MARK CORREA Courier-Post

I may get blacklisted for thinking -- much less saying -- this, but the uber-hip Collingswood dining scene just doesn't do it for me.

Grilled cheese? Not so sure about that ... Photo by DOUGLAS M. BOVITT/Courier-Post

Grilled cheese? Not so sure about that ... Photo by DOUGLAS M. BOVITT/Courier-Post

While all the "we know trendy" regional magazines keep raving about the great spots to eat and the town's residents continue their full-court press to make "Colls" the place to be, I'm often left wondering: "What's the big deal?"

Consider The Pop Shop, for instance.

Take away that confusing appearance on The Food Network (once a sandwich has meat on it, it's no longer a grilled cheese sandwich -- I don't care what The Pop Shop menu contends) and the positive reviews from publications including "Curious Parents," "SJ Magazine," "New Jersey Monthly" and others, and what are you left with?

You're left with a restaurant that serves average food at above-average prices and hopes to make up for it with above-average ambiance.

During my recent visit, I went for the classic bacon-cheeseburger.

No self-respecting "quirky American-diner comfort cuisine" restaurant should have a problem with that -- and, to their credit, the burger itself was fine.

Photo by DOUGLAS M. BOVITT/Courier-Post

Photo by DOUGLAS M. BOVITT/Courier-Post

But it's hugely disappointing that they couldn't find a sturdy bun to put it on. With so many fantastic bakeries in the region, The Pop Shop should consider finding a better one.

Halfway through the burger, the bun had deteriorated into a floppy afterthought.

Similarly, the barbecue sauce that I asked for on the side also seemed like a throwaway item, despite the waitress assuring me it was their homemade concoction.

I'm not surprised it was homemade, as I don't see anyone purposefully buying the mustard-and-vinegar-heavy sauce.

If I grabbed this burger somewhere else -- somewhere a little cheaper and with less positive word of mouth -- I'd probably be satisfied with it. But after hearing how great The Pop Shop is and seeing the long lines, I really expected better.

Luckily, they delivered when it came to the chocolate milkshake.

Maybe that's the answer: Go straight for the ice cream when you visit the place that wants to relive the glory days of the soda jerk.