Foodie review: Pop Shop doesn’t live up to billing

Reviewed by MARK CORREA Courier-Post

I may get blacklisted for thinking -- much less saying -- this, but the uber-hip Collingswood dining scene just doesn't do it for me.

Grilled cheese? Not so sure about that ... Photo by DOUGLAS M. BOVITT/Courier-Post

While all the "we know trendy" regional magazines keep raving about the great spots to eat and the town's residents continue their full-court press to make "Colls" the place to be, I'm often left wondering: "What's the big deal?"

Consider The Pop Shop, for instance.

Take away that confusing appearance on The Food Network (once a sandwich has meat on it, it's no longer a grilled cheese sandwich -- I don't care what The Pop Shop menu contends) and the positive reviews from publications including "Curious Parents," "SJ Magazine," "New Jersey Monthly" and others, and what are you left with?

You're left with a restaurant that serves average food at above-average prices and hopes to make up for it with above-average ambiance.

During my recent visit, I went for the classic bacon-cheeseburger.

No self-respecting "quirky American-diner comfort cuisine" restaurant should have a problem with that -- and, to their credit, the burger itself was fine.

Photo by DOUGLAS M. BOVITT/Courier-Post

But it's hugely disappointing that they couldn't find a sturdy bun to put it on. With so many fantastic bakeries in the region, The Pop Shop should consider finding a better one.

Halfway through the burger, the bun had deteriorated into a floppy afterthought.

Similarly, the barbecue sauce that I asked for on the side also seemed like a throwaway item, despite the waitress assuring me it was their homemade concoction.

I'm not surprised it was homemade, as I don't see anyone purposefully buying the mustard-and-vinegar-heavy sauce.

If I grabbed this burger somewhere else -- somewhere a little cheaper and with less positive word of mouth -- I'd probably be satisfied with it. But after hearing how great The Pop Shop is and seeing the long lines, I really expected better.

Luckily, they delivered when it came to the chocolate milkshake.

Maybe that's the answer: Go straight for the ice cream when you visit the place that wants to relive the glory days of the soda jerk.

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14 Responses to “Foodie review: Pop Shop doesn’t live up to billing”

Ted on June 12th, 2009

You should try going on Saturday mornings. If your kids wear their pajamas, they eat for free!

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- W. Rhodes on June 12th, 2009
  
  I wish I could eat for free Saturday mornings!
  
  Reply
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sjersee on August 9th, 2009

The Pop Shop makes Mr. Softee seem like a bargain!

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Wenhen on August 11th, 2009

I don’t so much mind the food but I’m surprised that he didn’t blast the ambiance. You can’t hear yourself order your food in that place because of the high ceilings and loud chatter when it’s packed. I’m surprised when the waitstaff gets my order right.

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D. Smythe on September 14th, 2009

Wait, let me get this straight . . . you trash Collingswood’s “dining scene” by citing The Pop Shop!? Get real. Next to Philadelphia itself, Collingswood is the top local destination for good eating! Walk up and down the main street, try any of the real restaurants, and you won’t be disappointed!

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S. Peterson on September 30th, 2009

The Pop Shop is terrible. My brother worked there as a teenager, and the owners wouldn’t let them eat food on their break. They got a discount on food bought while on duty, but they couldn’t eat it THERE. So much for those working the dinner shift. To take it home, whcih defeats the purpose, employees had to purchase a take out container. How ridiculous! Also, boss Bill took a portion of the tips, then doled out what he though apparopriate at the end of the shift.

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AlysonWandaLand on October 8th, 2009

I’ve been 3 times and have had great experiences on all of them. Regular menu and breakfast menu items have all been delicious. And I didn’t think that the prices were that bad at all. The noise level can be daunting with the way that place echos but all in all a great experience. Don’t skip the crabby pretzel or the milkshakes!

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mojopin426 on November 18th, 2009

Every time i have gone there the service has been utterly atrocious. It doesn’t matter if they are super busy or if we are one of three tables in the restaurant. The kids who work there are not trained correctly to deal with customers. Definitely a sign of poor management. The food’s pretty good but I will most likely not be visiting again anytime soon.

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ingedesigns on December 10th, 2009

I’ve never been disappointed… I go about once a week… and since when is it not a grilled cheese if there is meat in it! what about a grilled cheese with tomato and bacon? is that a BCT; Bacon Cheese tomato sandwich instead? and the service is great to, I’ve rolled in @ 9:32 & they still made me ice cream & a shake for my friend! (i cant speak to the burgers though… I only eat Sketch Burgers in Fishtown!

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Serena on December 28th, 2009

My friends and I (all grown-ups, with no kids) love The Pop Shop. I even had my 36th birthday there on a Pop Quiz Night! None of us have ever had a problem with the service, and we find all of their selections to be very yummy. Sometimes I do wish it were quieter in there, but if you go at off-peak times, you are more likely to find quieter surroundings (and no line!). Also, Connie and Stink seem to genuinely care about their customers and the town. As far as the kid who worked there and couldn’t eat his food there, that is pretty common among restaurants – unless you work at McDonald’s. Even in retail you are not allowed to spend your breaks on the sales floor. It’s common practice.

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- speters on December 31st, 2009
  
  Just to clear something up–they could not eat AT ALL while working, on sales floor or not. Obviously in retail you are not permitted to EAT on the sales floor, but this is a restaurant, and what is wrong with workers eating dinner at a table, or even in the back, if your into keeping up appearances. Anyone who chooses to go back after hearing how “Stink” took portions of the workers tips is a sad person in my book.
  
  Reply
  - Stink Fisher - OWNER on January 11th, 2010
    
    To clarify – The Pop Shop does not withhold tips, nor have we ever withheld tips. And employees are allowed to take breaks/eat at designated and appropriate times and places. We more than value our employees and strive to create a comfortable and fun work environment. Thanks – Stink
    
    Reply
Mike Smith on January 29th, 2010

The Pop Shop is a throwback soda fountain with a wide variety of essentially fast food items (e.g., 10,000 grilled cheese varieties). It certainly fills a niche, but to characterize the Colls restaurant scene using the Pop Shop as the example shows either ignorance or a biased agenda. Try Il Fiore, Joe Pesce, Sappori, Nunzio, Thai Basil, or any of the other fine restaurants (all BYOB) and get real. This review is a joke!

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Jun200912

10:28 am

W. Rhodes

14

Food

collingswood, Food, food network, grilled cheese, mark correa, pop shop, review

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